Over the years, our research teams noticed a puzzling inconsistency in the rate of relaxing process: the same Sensitive Scalp Relaxers showed radically different activity, even though they were applied to the same single hair fibers. A close analysis of the procedures allowed us to find that such inconsistency occurs when the prepared Sensitive Scalp Relaxer (also known as No-Lye, Guanidine Hydroxide, etc) is not promptly applied.
In order to explain the unusual effect, we devised an experiment that tested several consecutive sections of the same hair fiber with the same relaxer. Only the first section was exposed to the fresh relaxer while the next fragment of hair was subjected to the same relaxer formula, which had been sitting on the bench for a selected amount of time. This procedure allowed for us to control a delay time between mixing and the moment of application.
The graph shows that the reactivity of relaxers, indicated by the final extension of hair, strongly increases as time passes between the mixing process and the actual application of relaxer.
The most likely hypothesis correlates this phenomenon with the basic reaction that occurs in the relaxer after the mixing of cream and activator. Sensitive Scalp Relaxers are Guanidine Hydroxide relaxers that aren't ready-to-use formulas: they require the stylist to mix two components: the cream and the activator. The cream contains Calcium Hydroxide, which reacts with the activator's Guanidine Carbonate and produces the Guanidine Hydroxide that reacts with the hair and provides the straightening effect. The fact that the relaxer is much more active when its application is delayed after the mixing of its components, could indicate that the Guanidine Hydroxide starts to deteriorate to other components that cause the uncontrollable damage.
Based on this finding, we now recommend stylists to:
Following these two steps should help in the continuous effort of minimizing hair damage.